Posted on May 21 2017
I’ve created thousands of jewelry designs over the last few decades, working with some of the best jewelry houses in the world. When I look back over my work, there are a few designs that stand out from a sparkling crowd. In some cases it was because I broke new ground, in others it was a problem beautifully solved. Here are the five favorite jewelry designs of my brilliant career.
Fireworks, Tiffany & Co, 1991
This was my first big collection for Tiffany. The Fireworks brooches are large in scale in an irresistible burst of color. They made quite an impact! They were featured in The New York Times Magazine and the collection grew into Pearl and Gold and even Silver!!
Diamonds International Cuff, 1998
This cuff, designed for the wonderful biennial Diamonds International Competition that De Beers used to sponsor, was inspired by the iconic Charles Rennie Macintosh Willow chair. The competition is based on a sketch. Suna Bros., long-time clients and dear friends, made the finished piece and it attracted an incredible media response. I built a whole collection around it.
Kaleidoscope Tourmaline Necklace, Krementz & Co, 2011
Richard Krementz was one of those rare clients who said “Just design and we’ll get it made.” He was a gemstone fanatic. One day he showed me a very long and elegant watermelon tourmaline and asked me to design a one-of-a-kind piece. I designed a necklace surrounded by baguettes. As the jewelers were setting it, the stone broke, which can happen even with the best setters in the world. When a piece like that breaks, it’s a tragedy! But we recut the broken stone and I modified the design to highlight the two pieces. The irony is that the necklace actually worked better with two stones instead of one. It has better movement and lays more beautifully on the neck.
Deco Diamond Cuff, 2013
My first collection under my own name for Neiman Marcus is steeped in Art Deco. This cuff has a classic trellis shape: It is timeless, not trendy. And it’s light because it’s made by hand by some of the best master jewelers in New York. You don’t even know you have it on. It becomes part of you. But on the red carpet, it’s a wow moment.
Aster Double Blossom Collar, 2015
We’re not all Queen Elizabeth. Women today want jewelry that’s easy to wear every day. This Aster necklace has a streamlined hinged wire that explodes into blossoms. You can open it up and put it on easily. The petals are all rose-cut diamonds that create a subtle airy feeling like a real flower. I often wear it myself, either over a t-shirt or with a sheath in the evening. It takes you everywhere.